An average un-insulated attic area represents 25% of the heat loss of your home. 300 mm fibreglass insulation is the required amount to be installed in your attic area to conform to current building regulationss. Cold water pipes and cold water tanks are lagged and sealed. Insulated walkways are installed for safe access from your attic hatch to your water tanks. Curran Construction also install Cellulose Insulation which is made primarily with recylced wood fibre and newspapers. This is a product that has recently become popular due to its excellent Uvalue as an insulator and also because it helps solve waste disposal problems throughout the country.
For more information please do not hesitate in contacting ourselves to discuss all the benefits of insulating your home in a productive manner. We also install tank jackets on your water storage tanks, insulate all cold water pipes in your attic area and install insulated floor platforms to gain safe access from your access hatch to your water tanks. If you have an attic pull down stairs and will fully insulate the attic door that will greatly reduce heat loss in this area.
Did you know that around a third of all the heat lost in an un-insulated home goes through the walls? Heat will always flow from a warm area to a cold one. In winter, the colder it is outside, the faster heat from your home will escape into the surrounding air. Most houses built in Dublin and around Ireland from the 1990’s on wards were built with insulation in the walls to keep the heat in, but if your house is older than that it may not have any wall insulation at all. If this is the case then you’re paying good money to heat the outside air, instead of just heating your home.
Luckily most types of wall can be insulated in one way or another. If you have a typical house with cavity walls you could save up to €160 per year in heating bills just from insulating the walls. The first thing you need to find out is what sort of walls you have. Most houses in Dublin and Ireland have either solid walls or cavity walls. Cavity walls is actually made up of two walls with a gap in between, known as the cavity; the outer leaf is usually made of brick, and the inner layer of brick or concrete block and a solid wall has no cavity,each wall is a single solid wall, usually made of brick or stone.
If your house was built after the 1920’s it is likely to have cavity walls. Older houses are more likely to have solid walls.If you can see the brickwork on the outside of the house, look at the pattern of the bricks. If your home has cavity walls, the bricks will usually have a regular pattern. If the brickwork has been covered, you can also tell by measuring the width of the wall. Go to a window or door on one of your external walls. If a brick wall is more than 260mm thick then it probably has a cavity; a narrower wall is probably solid.
Stone walls can be thicker still but are usually solid. There are other types of Dublin houses that dont fall into these catrgories. Some houses aren’t made from brick or stone at all, and so don’t fit neatly into these two categories – for example, steel-frame and timber-frame buildings, and houses made from pre-fabricated concrete. Generally these houses don’t have a cavity to fill, but it may be possible to insulate them in the same way as a solid wall.
Solid wall insulation
Insulating your solid walls could cut your heating costs considerably, because solid walls let through twice as much heat as cavity walls do. The good news is they can be insulated from the inside or the outside. If your home was built before 1920, its external walls are probably solid rather than cavity walls. Cavity walls are made of two layers with a small gap or ‘cavity’ between them. Solid walls have no such gap, so they let more heat through. Solid walls can be insulated either from the inside or the outside.
This will cost more than insulating a standard cavity wall, but the savings on your heating bills will be bigger. Before your walls can be insulated, any problems with penetrating or rising damp must be resolved. Insulation should not be used to cover, hide or isolate damp as this could lead to serious problems in the future. There are two ways to insulate a solid wall internally – with rigid insulation boards, or a stud wall. Stud wall insulation is thicker than rigid insulation boards, so it will reduce the size of your room more.
But a stud wall is strong enough to hold heavy fittings such as kitchen units, radiators or wash basins. Insulation boards need fixings that go through them and into the wall behind. Is the wall’s surface even? If the plaster is uneven or plaster has been removed and the brickwork is uneven, the wall must be levelled with a layer of plaster or render before boards can be fitted, so a stud wall might be a better option.
Rigid insulation boards
Plasterboard backed with rigid insulation is fitted to the inside of your walls. The insulation is usually made from one of several forms of foamed plastic. It should normally be at least 60mm thick, and can be up to 100mmm. The actual thickness required will depend on the material used – find out more about different insulation materials. Insulation boards are fixed straight onto the wall using continuous ribbons of plaster or adhesive. Extra fixings hold the boards firm, and joints between boards are sealed to prevent air leaking out.
Stud wall insulation
A metal or wooden stud work frame is attached to the wall and filled in with mineral wool fibre. It can then be plastered over, ready for redecoration. Mineral wool insulation is less effective than rigid insulation boards, Instead of applying plaster, the frame can be covered with rigid insulation boards for even more effective insulation, reducing your running costs even further.
To insulate a solid wall from the outside, a layer of insulation material is fixed to the walls with mechanical fixings and adhesive, then covered with protective layers of render or cladding. The finish can be smooth, textured or painted, tiled, panelled, pebble-dashed (for easy maintenance) or finished with brick slips to provide a real masonry brick finish. The finish will cover the whole of the outside of your property, including existing brickwork, and may change its appearance. So you must find out if you need planning permission.
To prevent condensation, recessed areas around windows must be insulated as well as the walls – with the depth of insulation depending on the width of the window frame. All external pipework and other fittings will have to be removed and replaced, and it may be necessary to extend window sills and even the roof overhang to protrude beyond the new layer. It is often possible to fit additional sills to avoid replacing any of the original structure.